The Northern Loop of Thailand (Mae Hong Son Loop) - How I Did It?

Regular view during the loop

This Northern Loop (often called the Mae Hong Son Loop named after the region and its capital) can be done in 4 days minimum, depending on how long you stop and explore. If you think about doing it in 3 days you must be crazy J  You can do it clockwise or anticlockwise. I did it anticlockwise, starting from Chiang Mai.

Best time to do it

The best season is November to February (cooler weather, better visibility, nicer riding). You can do it other months, but rainy season can be brutal: slippery roads, poor visibility, and landslide risk in some areas (I would not do that – Thailand and the loop will be there for another trip).

Renting the scooter in Chiang Mai

Starting from Chiang Mai, I rented a 150cc scooter. A smaller one (125cc) is possible, but I don’t recommend it (and some rental agencies don’t rent them for the loop). On some uphill sections, I saw 125cc scooters struggling a lot – especially with luggage (or two people).

I rented from Mango Scooters Rental for 360 THB per day, and the process was easy (deposit of 2,000 THB).

Quick advice on choosing a bike:

• If you’re new to riding: go for an automatic scooter, 150cc +.

• If you’re experienced: a manual bike gives more control downhill, but it’s not necessary. Just try to let your breaks cool down downhill in automatic scooter.

• Whatever you choose: pick something you’re confident riding. This loop is fun, but it’s not the place to “learn by riding” (unless, again, you are crazy).

Day 1: Chiang Mai > Pai

First stop: Pai.

Pai is a small but beautiful town with a lively night market (at least on Friday – try the sushi), Pai Canyon, and plenty of chill spots. With stops, it took me 4-5 hours to reach Pai.

The ride itself was pleasant: nice roads, green views, and plenty of fuel stations. I stopped at a waterfall (Mork Fa Waterfall – beautiful one) and somewhere in the middle of the root to recharge.

One serious note: overtaking can be dangerous. Sometimes you’ll see cars or trucks (trucks mainly – most probably you’ll hate trucks after this loop) coming at you in the wrong lane (yes, really). So:

• don’t overtake on blind corners,

• stay focused,

• and ride defensively.

• Also, keep your speed reasonable, not too fast not too slow.

In the middle of the trip I met a guy from New Delhi and we were discussing how hard is the loop so far. Because we both had read that “the most difficult part is the halfway to Pai” which we had already done. And we made some jokes about indian trafic that those thinking the loop is hard should ride in India. So it is hard to tell what is hard what is not, it is all about what your experience is, then you can compare yourself. One thing is for sure that the road conditions are great and you can rely on that!

Places to eat in Pai? Well, you have the scooter, just go around and see the whole town and then find your favorite spot. I won’t be giving long list of cafes etc. – You have a Google Map or just ask around locals.

Where I stayed in Pai

I found a bungalow in rice fields, about 10–15 minutes from Pai center called “Paddy Fields Haven – Natures Nest Pai”. Quiet, beautiful, and affordable.

General tip about the deals: USE AGODA IN THAILAND! It does offer great deals.

Rice field view from the bungalow

Mork Fa Waterfall 

Curves look like something this...

The sushi in Pai Night Market

Day 2: Pai > (detours) > Mok Cham Pae area

Next day, late morning / early afternoon, I headed toward Mae Hong Son… but I ended up adapting the classic loop because I found extra stops on the way.

Along the route I visited:

• Noodle Soup House Ban Jabo,

• an old Chinese settlement near the border area,

• a Long Neck village (next day),

• and I found a bungalow with a stunning view in between.

So instead of pushing all the way to Mae Hong Son that day, I rode 4-5 hours with stops and settled near Mok Cham Pae (area). Somewhere in the middle I took some half an hour of detour to taste the noodle soup in Ban Jabo village with a beautiful view. By the way, if you keep going few hundred meters after the Noodle Soup House you can buy some petrol too in this village.

I checked into a beautiful bungalow called “Nithisoonthon Farmstay”, then rode 20-25 minutes to the Chinese settlement area, very close to the Myanmar border called “Ban Rak Thai” – one of the most beautiful scenic villages you may see in the world (I may be exagarating, but it was indeed beautiful). While there, do try some thai hot pot near the lake (I’d recommend the opposite side to have a nice view also to be able to sit right next to water).

That little town was honestly a must and it took me some 3-4 hours. Make sure you are very careful on the way back at night: no lights, pure forest and not a busy road (at some point it was a bit scary).

The boat (ish)

Ban Rak Thai

Hot pot coal

Day 3: The Hardest Day – Long Neck village > Mae Hong Son city > Mae Chaem

Next morning I rode about 1 hour toward the Long Neck Karen Village – one of the most memorable stops. There is few of such villages in Thailand, check surrounding, you’ll find one. The one I went is next to Nai Soi. Road is a bit bumpy but you’ll survive.

The village hosts around 20 families, originally refugees from Myanmar. They make handmade products and sell them to tourists, and yes – they heavily depend on tourists – please do buy small gifts from them. Also, consider donating to the whole community – at the entrance there should be a box, if not, just ask and they’ll bring it.

hey were welcoming and kind. One young girl spoke good English and told me she learned it at school in a refugee camp (which she said was crowded).

After that, I headed back toward Mae Hong Son city and got the certificate from the Chamber of Commerce (a fun little “I did the loop” thing). Then the long day started.

It was already afternoon. Having rested and enjoyed a pad thai I started the long ride of 4-5 hours (excluding breaks and 2 hours have already been done).

This day was the most intense and tiring part of the whole trip. I also changed my plan and didn’t go to Mae Sariang – usually those who have 5-7 days travel all the way to down to Mae Sariang, stay there and then ride to Chiang Mai. However, as I had a pre-booked flight, I had to cut it short.

By night, it got cold, and I didn’t have enough warm clothing. Not ideal – but I survived and finally checked into a hotel with a nice farm view. Around Mae Chaem there are many small towns and hotels (I chose the one called “Khuang Na Farmview”).

Reality check: on this loop, the “hard part” isn’t only the curves – it’s also fatigue, weather, and cold at altitude. Don’t underestimate it.

Day 4: Mae Chaem > Doi Inthanon > Chiang Mai

Next morning I had a beautiful breakfast with a farm view, then headed out for the last stretch.

We passed through Doi Inthanon, the highest peak in Thailand. I wish I had time to explore the national park properly, but I had a flight to catch from Chiang Mai. So I accelerated back, returned the scooter, and went to the airport.

Practical tips I wish I took more seriously

1) International Driving Permit (IDP)

If you can, get an International Driving Permit before your visit. Police checks happen, especially around Chiang Mai. If you don’t have it, you might get fined (1000 TBH). I was caught in Phuket, but you if you pay once you’re safe for later.

2) Carry cash

Small towns, small cafés, roadside food, and even some (or many) fuel spots may be cash only. ATMs are not always nearby and ATMs always charge 250 TBH per withdrawal – so withdraw a lot when you do.

3) Fuel up often

Don’t wait until the tank is low. When you see a good fuel station, just top up. Because sometimes you won’t see them for tens of kms.

4) Pack light (but pack smart)

This is not the trip for heavy luggage. You want the scooter to feel stable.

What I recommend:

• light layers + a warmer layer (nights can be cold)

• rain jacket / poncho (even in “dry” months, weather can change)

• closed shoes

• sunglasses + sunscreen (must!)

• power bank + phone holder (if your rental doesn’t give one)

• basic meds + hydration mindset (you get tired faster when dehydrated)

5) Helmet, always

Not negotiable. Thailand has a serious accident problem, and this route has thousands of curves. Wear a decent helmet and ride like you want to arrive.

My impressions of this loop

This loop is stunning. Not extremely hard technically, but it can be tiring. The roads are good, but there are tons of curves (the official number people quote is around 1,800 +, but the certificate says 4088 until 2/3, then I did some more 1800 curves, I’d estimate over 6000 in total – but honestly it feels like thousands). Some days are easy, some days will test your energy.

All the way: amazing viewpoints, green mountains, friendly people, great food, and a feeling of freedom that you don’t get from normal tourist routes.

If you want to understand how travel can feel different – slower, deeper, more real – this loop is a must.

And for any specific info do reach out to me… :)